Rock climbing

Thabaphaswa Rock Climbing Route Guide

Prefer Bouldering? You can do it at Thabaphaswa!

Kanniedood Crag

From the farm house drive out the North gate and take the first left turn. Follow this road up past some intersections past a gate, through the gate to a parking marked “Climbing Parking”. The road required 4×4 and low range with a lot of clearance. Walk from this parking to the crag is 10 min, walk from the bottom before the bad road to the crag is 30 min uphill.

The Ramp Area

This sector has afternoon shade. A number of easy climbs suitable for beginners. This is on the far left of the crag where you walk around the corner and up the ramp with the climbs on the right.

Just for Fun 11 5D *

Climb the left most route of the 3 climbs on the 12m high very on angle obvious slab

F. A and BB Johan Moelich 25/05/2013

Loula 12 6D **

Climb the line just right of Just for Fun

FA: Sjene Smith, BB: Johan Moelich 25/05/2013

Surami 13 7D **

Climb the right of the 3 slab routes, hard bit is at the bottom.

FA: Sharon Benade, BB: Johan Moelich 25/05/2013

Just for Kicks 14 9D ***

7m down to the right of the slab is a right facing on angle corner with a crack in the back of it. Climb the corner, crux, and then leftwards up the slab following a thin crack line.

F.A. Samuel Chowles, BB: Samuel Chowles/Neil Margetts 19/09/2020

Summer Vibes 13 7D ***

Start same place as Just for Kicks but move up and do an awkward move right onto a ledge. Continue another metre right and up passing two ledges.

F.A. Hermien Venter, BB. Neil Margetts 20/09/2020

Bloustert Akkedis 14 4D *

Start just right of a recess. After an awkward start continue up easier rock to the top. This line needs some extra bolts.

FA and BB: Hermien Venter 16/05/2017

Shongololo 14 3D

Route to the right of Bloustert Akkedis, can be top roped, a bit run out for a lead

FA: Ruan Snyman, BB: Hermien Venter 22/07/2017

Skoenlapper 16 9D **

Route starts at the granite slab, then up the crack, out right and up to the anchors.

FA: Hermien Venter, BB: Thomas Kotlar 26/03/2016

Super Cool Nifty 21 9D

Straight up the face of the bulge just right of the crack.

FA and BB: Thomas Kotlar, 26/03/2016

Miena se Muis 20 9D

Use the crack then over the top to the anchors.

FA: Thomas Kotlar, BB: Thomas Kotlar

Note: Skoenlapper, Super Cool Nifty and Miena se Muis all use the same anchors.

Lunch Spot climbs

These climbs are on the face that you see as you approach the crag. This is the post popular sector, with shade on the bottom of the crag most of the day from the big trees. The area below the climbs is mostly flat.

Take the path left to get to the next 2 climbs which start near some trees which are very close to the cliff.

Crackadellic 16 27m 14D***

Climb up to the thin crack on the front of the nose, then at 5m step right around the corner. Climb up for 3m and move left and up into another crack (crux), continue up to a point one must step right onto a nose and up to the chains.

F.A. Neil Margetts, Nadine Van Heerden B.B. Neil Margetts July 2018

Triple Town 17 14D ***

. Starts at the flake just right of the tree against the rock, 5 meters left of My Big Toe and 3m right of Crackadellic.

FA: Sharon Benade BB: Johan Moelich 11/05/2013

Money on the Rocks 18 15D***

Start 3m right of Triple Town up a slab into a faint crack. Continue up the crack and up the face to a rest below a bulge. Crux about 5m below the rest. Climb over the bulge (second Crux) and continue up the slab to the chains

Note: This is a long climb, a 30m rope just makes it, a 70m would be better

F.A. Neil Margetts, Nadine Van Heerden B.B. Neil Margetts, Wisdom Chilanga July 2018

My Big Toe 19 12D ****

Climb up the initial smooth bulge, crux, then continue up the face directly above the start. An extra bolt has been added for safety.

Note: This climb could be grade 20

F.A. ???

Atom Heart Mother 18 10D ****

Start just left of the start of Little Grit. Climb up a series of ledges left of a big tree to a point where one can do a thin move up and left to a rest under a small overlap. Move more left and over the overlap and continue straight up the chains.

Note: There is a small heart shaped mark on the rock just next to the second bolt.

F.A and BB Neil Margetts August 2020

A Little Grit 20 11D ***

This climb moves through the bulges 5m left of a recess with a big fig tree in it. Start to the left and move diagonally right up to a ledge. Climb over the bulge to a ledge and continue up over a second bulge slightly to the left and then straight up to the chains on a ledge. A bold line.

Note 1: The route was first opened by climbing and bolting from the bottom without prior establishing of bolts bias the use of a top rope.

Note 2: This is a long climb, a 30m rope just makes it, a 70m would be better. One can approach the chains from the top by coming in from the left looking down to set up a top rope.

F.A. and BB. – Emilia Schönherr und Paul Grotheer, Lina Schneeweiß, Tilmann Hartmann 13. July 2015

More Monkey than Funkey 20 10D ***

Start just right of the fig tree and climb up using the tree to a rest leaning against a big branch. Do a scary move left on under clings to a rest under a bulge, climb over the bulge (crux) and up to the top. Fun climb, unusual moves.

F.A Neil Margetts BB. Neil Margetts and Samuel Chowles 20 September 2020

Wisdom vs Youth 20 *** 8D

Climb the left of the recess just right of the big fig tree. The climb moves in from the left, over a crux section followed by a rest on some big grips at the top of the recess. Then a final fun move right over the overlap to continue up the easy rock to the chains.

A fun climb with an interesting crux. Safely bolted and good for a person new to leading that grade.

F.A. Neil Margetts B.B. Neil Margetts, Wisdom Chilanga July 2018

Right Side

This sector is on the right of the crag, gets more sun and is more suited for early in the morning or on a cold or overcast day.

Friday 13th 23 14D ***

Start about 30m right of the lunch spot by a shallow recess. Climb up the recess and up over a bulge, crux, then continue up leftwards to the chains. Sustained climbing.

F.A. and BB ??

Dead Ant 21 10D ***

Starts just right of Friday 13th up to the chains and permanent carabiner just under the little overhang.

F.A and BB ??

Yoga on the Rocks 23 14D ****

There are two long climbs on the face left of the obvious left facing corner on the right of the crag. This takes the left of the two climbs.

F.A. and BB ??

Boned 21 14D ****

Climb the line just right of Yoga on the rocks.

F.A and BB ??

Tu-lips 15 *** ?D

Pitch 1: 15, 16m ?D

Climb up the left facing corner to a ledge on the right.

Pitch 2: 14, 20m ?D

Continue up the recess behind the ledge and at the top move right to the chains.

F.A. and BB ??

Scorpio *** 19

Walk to right hand side of crag. The line of bolts following the

off-width crack is Scorpion. The bolt line to the left of the crack is

a variation to Scorpion and worth the try. (Variation pitch is a grade 23)

Pitch 1: 19, 15m 12D

Climb up just left of the crack and up to the ledge. Belay on big ledge

Pitch 2: 16, 30m 8D

Belay in the big scoop

Pitch 3: 10, 35m 4D

Top out, climb this for the view.

When Abseiling and you’re using 60 meter ropes, do two abseils and use the chains you pass as you climb pitch 3. The abseil is only 5 meters between the two point but necessary and you will be caught short on a 60 meter rope if you try abseil the whole route in one go.

Dome Rock

Whistling in the wind 19 ?D ***

F.A. and BB ?

Monkey See Monkey Do 15 4D **

FA: Jaco Venter, BB: Hermien Venter 13/10/2018

Elephant’s Head

This climb goes up the big recess left of the “elephant Trunk” on the North East face of Thabaphaswa mountain. From the camp site walk up and right to make one’s way to the base of the recess.

Pitch 1: ** 23, 22m

Starts to the left of the elephant’s trunk. On balance, small holds on a relatively smooth surface. Crux 1/3 of the way up, then straight forward to the top

Pitch 2: ** 19, 23m

Start right to avoid loose slab, then left under the boulder, continue left over dassie shit – worst section on this climb

Pitch 3: *** 18, 23m

Starts from a small cave through which on can see under the elephant to the other side of the rock face. Route moves over to the left past the elephant’s ear.

Pitch 4: *** 17, 22m

Pitch 5: ** 15, 10m

Short easy finish.

F.A and BB?

Kanniedood Mountain Hut

The climbs next to the big tree house.

Swart Mamba Anchors *** 17

Starts on the left side of the hut at the open book in the corner. There are 2 seperate anchors on top of the bolder. Mainly used for youth abseil and top rope.

Pofadder 12, 17m 7D **

Starts on the right side of the hut on the granite slope. The route moves directly up. Ideal for beginners learning to lead sport climbs.

BB: Hermien Venter FA: Nehan Fourie 22/07/2017

Thabaphaswa offers a great number of climbs at two Main Granite Outcrops:

New mountain club for Limpopo

• KANNIEDOOD CRAG with 15 single climbs and 2 multi -pitch climbs; and
• THABAPHASWA MOUNTAIN WITH THREE CRAGS. There is at this stage one 150 meter multi-pitch on one of these crags but there is the potential to bolt many other climbs on these three crags. Plans are underway for this to be done.

Elephant’s Head

• Pitch 1: ** 23, 22m Starts to the left of the elephant’s trunk. On balance, small holds on a relatively smooth surface. Crux 1/3 of the way up, then straight forward to the top
• Pitch 2: ** 19, 23m Start right to avoid loose slab, then left under the boulder, continue left over dassie shit – worst section on this climb
• Pitch 3: *** 18, 23m Starts from a small cave through which on can see under the elephant to the other side of the rock face. Route moves over to the left past the elephant’s ear.
• Pitch 4: *** 17, 22m Route moves directly up to just short of the top. Pitch 5: ** 15, 10m Short easy finish. There are also some shorter sport climbs bolted at two of the Bush Camps.

The Kanniedood Crag

The easier climbs at Kanniedood crag can be reached by going left as you reach the bottom of the crag.

Go left then right around the corner and up the hill. The climbs are close together on the easy slab on your right as you get to the top of the crag.

• ”Just for fun” *** 11R(1B,C), 12m (25/05/2013)BB: Johan Moelich FA: Johan Moelich Climb straight up to bolt, then right to Loula’s chains.
• ”Loula” **** 11(3B,C), 14m (25/05/2013)BB: Johan Moelich FA: Sjene Smith
• ”Surami” *** 12(3B,C), 14m (25/05/2013)BB: Johan Moelich FA: Sharon Benade
• ”Lekker Likkewaan Top Rope Anchors” 20m (Route can be top roped)(14/10/2018) A lot of potential to bolt new routes by using the top rope anchors, ideal for beginner climbers top roping.
• ”Bloustert Akkedis” *** 12(2B,C), 10m (16/05/2017)BB: Hermien Venter FA: Hermien Venter
• ”Shongololo”*** 14 (Route can be top roped),(1 Bolt & Anchors) 10m, (22/07/2017) BB: Hermien Venter FA: Ruan Snyman
• ”Skoenlapper” 18/15* (6 Bolts + Anchors), 17m (26/03/2016) BB: Thomas Kotlar, FA: Hermien Venter. Route starts at the granite slab, then up the crack, out right and up to the anchors. Use the crack and stay left for 15. Use the face right of the crack for 18.
• ”Super Cool Nifty” – 21 (6 Bolts + Anchors), 17m (26/03/2016) BB: Thomas Kotlar, FA: Thomas Kotlar. Straight up the face of the bulge.
• ”Miena se Muis” – 20 (6 Bolts + Anchors), 17m (26/03/2016) BB: Thomas Kotlar, FA: Thomas Kotlar. Use the crack then over the top to the anchors. (Skoenlapper, Super Cool Nifty and Miena se Muis use the same anchors.)
• “Cracadelic” – 17, 28m (30/06/2018)BB: Neil Margetts, FA: Nadine van Heerden. Route stars on the left of Tripple Town, follow route up through the crack over the bulge. Use anchors of Skoenlapper, Miena se muis & Super Cool Nifty.
• ”Triple Town” *** 17, 27m (11/05/2013)BB: Johan Moelich FA: Sharon Benade (5 meters left of My Big Toe. Starts at the flake under the tree.)
• ”My Big Toe” **** 19, 20m (Brilliant climb)
• ”A Little Grit” 20 – 1 pitch – 4 bolts
• “German Route” 13. July 2015 – Emilia Schönherr und Paul Grotheer, Lina Schneeweiß, Tilmann Hartmann This nice climb starts a few meters to the right of the route “My Big Toe”. There are some run-outs on this route. The route was done by climbing and bolting from the bottom without prior establishing of bolts bias the use of a top rope.
• ”Friday 13th” *** 20, 24m
• ”Dead Ant” *** 21, 19m
• ”Yoga on the Rocks” **** 23, 23m
• ”Boned” **** 21, 23m
• ”Tu-lips” *** 16, 36m Multi Pitch Pitch 1: 16, 16m Pitch 2: 15, 20m
• “Scorpion” *** 19, 3 pitches (2013) Multi Pitch Walk to right hand side of crag. The line of bolts following the off-width crack is Scorpion. The bolt line to the left of the crack is a variation to Scorpion and worth the try. (Variation pitch is a grade 23) Pitch 1: 19, 20m 10 bolts. Belay on big ledge Pitch 2: 16, 30m 5or6 bolts. Belay in big scoop Pitch 3: 10, 35m 2 bolts. Top out (Climb for the view) When Abseiling and you’re using 60 meter ropes, use the chains you pass as you climb pitch 3. The abseil is only 5 meters between the two point but necessary. You will be caught short on a 60 meter rope.

Kanniedood Mountain Hut

• ”Swart Mamba Anchors” *** 17 Starts on the left side of the hut at the open book in the corner. There are 2 seperate anchors is on top of the bolder. Mainly used for youth abseil and top rope.
• ”Pofadder” ** 12, 17m (5 Bolts & Anchors) (22/07/2017) BB: Hermien Venter FA: Nehan Fourie Starts on the right side of the hut on the granite slope. The route moves directly up. Ideal for beginners sport climbing.

Dome Rock at Dome Rock Camp

• ”Whistling in the wind” On the side of the Maroela Unit of the Rock *** 19, 7m
• ”Monkey See Monkey Do” On the side of the Kiepersol Unit of the Rock 15, 5.5m (2 Bolts & Anhors) (13/10/2018) BB: Hermien Venter FA: Jaco Venter.

Special services provided by Hermien Venter

There is a special service available for rock climbers at Thabaphaswa. Hermien Venter knows all the climbs very well, and provides a service as guide and climbing leader for climbers at Thabaphaswa. She can also provide climbing equipment if so required. Hermien’s services can be booked via the contact form or call her at 0784263196.

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Find the climbing info of Thabaphaswa on the Climb SA wiki.

Read more about the geology of our climbing routes